Fast fashion refers to a distinct industry standard in which high-fashion trends are duplicated through large-scale manufacturing. The clothes are ultimately offered at significantly reduced or affordable price points.
The arrival of the fast fashion model emerged during the 20th century and marked the arrival of diminishing manufacturing costs and an exponential surge in consumer demand. This shift was partly attributed to the advent of innovative fabric materials like polyester and nylon, which in turn triggered a reduction in prices.
In addition, the incorporation of cost-efficient labour practices, streamlined supply chains, and agile manufacturing techniques created an environment for retailers and fast fashion enterprises to flourish and even metamorphose into expansive global entities.
The Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion
Fashion holds substantial sway within the global arena, including South Africa.
The fashion industry in South Africa is a significant contributor to the economy and it encompasses various segments including textiles, clothing, footwear, and accessories.
In 2017, it was reported that the South African fashion industry was valued at around R60 billion (South African Rand). This valuation included various aspects such as retail, manufacturing, design, and related services. This industry in general has faced many challenges and opportunities over the decades. Some of these have been the growth of local designers, the influence of international trends, the rise of e-commerce and of course, the fast fashion impact on the environment.
According to the United Nations, the projected demand for the natural resources it would take to maintain current lifestyles when global population growth is considered could require almost three Earths by 2050.
There is no doubt that the fashion sphere is currently in the spotlight, not only because of its financial impact, but also for its role in shaping a myriad of aspects including trends, convictions, attitudes, behaviours, identity, and culture. This means that engaging with fast fashion bears a collective toll — social, economic, and environmental — that resonates universally. As a consequence, many high-profile people and media institutions are ambassadors for the question: what is fast fashion and why is it a problem?
Industry Growth
On one hand, the widespread adoption of fast fashion across the globe does generate employment and economic expansion in developing nations; however, it also imposes serious environmental and social burdens. To this effect, Eco Age has cautioned that the international competition for attracting investments was promoting a downward spiral for both quality and standards.
By the year 2030, the projected 63% surge in global apparel consumption will mean a leap from an estimated current 62 million tons to a staggering 102 million tons—equivalent to an additional 500 billion T-shirts.
How Does Fast Fashion Affect the Environment: Consumption Levels
In asking the question: wy is fast fashion a problem, one needs to consider the words of English fashion designer, Phoebe English, “fast fashion is a 'monstrous disposable industry'. There is no doubt that fast fashion has driven overconsumption and excessive waste because the production of cheap garments makes them disposable.
The Flip Side of Fast Fashion and the Environment
On the flip side, some have applauded the advantages of fast fashion. According to Dr Sumner from Leeds University School of Design, it is a phenomenon that has achieved success by effectively 'democratising' fashion. It has extended the opportunity for 'people from all walks of life, regardless of social class, income, or background, to partake in and access the indulgent and emotionally satisfying experience of fashion.'
Statistics on the Fast Fashion Impact on the Environment
Highlighted below are significant facts and statistics pertaining to the carbon, water, and land usage footprints associated with textiles in the fashion sector:
- When considering carbon footprint, a polyester shirt displays more than twice the impact of a cotton shirt.
- The production of one kilogram of cotton —equivalent to the combined weight of a shirt and a pair of jeans— can demand a staggering 10 000 to 20 000 litres of water.
- Forecasts indicate that the fashion industry is predicted to amplify its land usage for fibre production by 35% by 2030, which would require an additional 115 million hectares. Instead, these lands could potentially serve as biodiversity havens or be allocated for crop cultivation to support a growing global population.
Textile and Climate Change
Textile production is a major contributor to climate change. It produces an estimated 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 equivalent (CO2e) per year —more than international flights and maritime shipping combined.
It is estimated that across the full lifecycle of clothing globally, the industry has an annual carbon footprint of 3.3 billion tonnes of CO2e. That figure is close to the combined carbon footprint of all 28 current members of the EU.
In South Africa, the carbon footprint of clothing varies based on factors like materials, production processes, and transportation. A single garment's carbon footprint can range from a few kilograms to over 20 kilograms of CO2e. However, an average estimate places it around 10-15 kilograms of CO2e per item.
Water Consumption in Fashion
Substantial water volumes are essential for fibre production. In an international survey conducted by WRAP in 2016 to measure the environmental impact of fast fashion, it was found that the UK clothing water footprint was 8 billion cubic metres.
On a global scale, the fashion sector gobbles up 79 billion cubic metres annually. This is feasible considering how much water it takes to dye, finish and wash clothes. In asking why fast fashion is a problem, we could cite the example of how chemical-induced denim, poses enormous hazards to the workers and the environment.
Unfortunately, the reality of textile production is that it creates heavy water pollution when it discharges chemical-laden effluents into waterways. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation notes that textiles contribute 20% of industrial water pollution globally, with chemicals used in cotton growing making a huge contribution to water scarcity. In arid regions, cotton amplifies water shortages which disproportionately affects low-income communities in countries like China and India. As water stress mounts, some cotton producers face the stark choice between crops and clean water —heralding an ecological, economic, and social catastrophe.
Land Use, Fibres and Fast Fashion Impact on the Environment
Sadly, the cultivation of natural fibres drives deforestation and biodiversity decline. Global reports state that by 2030, the fashion sector will see a 35% surge in land usage for fibre production which will require an additional 115 million hectares. Instead, these radical expansions could bolster crop growth for a burgeoning population or serve as vital carbon-absorbing forests.
It is, therefore, plain to see that both natural and synthetic fibres which are integral to clothing, raise ethical and environmental concerns. Crafting natural fibres such as leather, cotton, wool, cashmere, and silk necessitates water, land, animals, feed, and chemicals. In a seemingly no-win situation, artificial counterparts like polyester, derived from non-renewable petroleum, entail energy-intensive manufacturing processes.
Industry Sustainability and the Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion
In yet another global study, research conducted by the Boston Consulting Group and Global Fashion Agenda for the Copenhagen Fashion Summit in 2017 revealed a concerning inadequacy in the sustainability efforts of the fashion industry. This means that numerous brands and retailers, including those in the high fashion sector that imitate fast fashion methods, lack comprehensive engagement when it comes to crucial social and environmental influence.
The Sustainability Challenge
These recent estimations serve to highlight the world's dramatic shortfall to attain the key global targets related to climate change, worldwide emissions, and biodiversity. They emphasise that crafting a sustainable future for both the planet and its inhabitants is an imperative that should define our era. In October 2018, the multi-government panel on Climate Change (IPCC) cautioned that adherence to the Paris Agreement's objective to restrict global temperature escalation to 1.5°C will prove unattainable if current trajectories persist.
South Africa’s Commitment to Sustainability
South Africa’s commitment to sustainability by aligning with the United Nations Sustainability Goals (SDGs) means that the government is focused on poverty eradication, quality education, gender equality, clean water and sanitation, affordable and clean energy, economic growth, industry innovation, reduced inequality, sustainable cities, responsible consumption, climate action, life on land, and partnerships.
This means that as a nation our collective enquiry that asks the question, how does fast fashion affect the environment, is relevant. From the above SGD goals, it is clear that the social and environmental impact of fast fashion is something that every South African should be thinking about.
Finally, if you want to contribute to efforts to mitigate the negative relationship between fast fashion and the environment, there are a few things that you can do:
- Engage in thorough research before making purchases.
- Opt for ethical and non-fast fashion South African brands.
- Examine and possibly dismantle your fast fashion consumption habits.
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